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Rancho Cortés

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We had been told by many people that we needed to visit Rancho Cortés to sample their cheese and olive oils. However there is no one person who seems to know exactly where this rancho is located. Driving around Mex4 we finally talked to someone who knew where it was and gave us good directions.

This is a family owned farm dating back 40 years ago. The father who started this farm, actually went over to France to learn the art of cheese making as well as to buy French cows to be used in the cheese making process.

The Cavas of Rancho Cortez

The Cavas of Rancho Cortez

We started with some of their Queso Fresca, which is aged in the cava for one month. It is a soft cheese but very good.

We then moved on to trying their Gouda cheese. These use cultures from Europe and are a much firmer cheese.

The Queso de Gouda at Rancho Cortéz

The Queso de Gouda at Rancho Cortéz

The third cheese we based was Queso de Guadalupe which uses a mold aging process, is more flavorful and also uses cultures from Europe.

Queso de Guadalupe at Rancho Cortés

Queso de Guadalupe at Rancho Cortés

We then moved on to the Queso Añejo which is the gouda but aged much longer. Excellent.

Queso Añejo at Rancho Cortés

Queso Añejo at Rancho Cortés

The final cheese we tasted was the Queso de Parmesan which is aged 8 months, although in most years it is aged one year. The reason that this was less than the normal aging time is just because the cheese has been in such demand that they sold out of the last production batch and they felt that the cheese had aged sufficiently. It was excellent.

Queso de Parmesan

Queso de Parmesan

So after buying a number of these pieces, we then tried their olive oil, which we found to be very good and very reasonably priced.

Misiones de Baja California, the olive oil of Rancho Cortez

Misiones de Baja California, the olive oil of Rancho Cortez

Rancho Cortés

Phone: +52 (646) 113-4425

Clos de Tres Cantos

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Clos de Tres Cantos is a relatively new vineyard in the Valle de Guadalupe. From the main road you are greeted by their sign.

The entrance to Clos de Tres Cantos

The entrance to Clos de Tres Cantos

As you drive up to the winery, you see some very unique architecture. We were later told that the owners a big supporters of the local artists and that every two years or so a different local artist can use the facility for presenting their art. You see that in the building below on the left side were there is a large mural on the roof of the building.

The winery supports local artists by having them paint part of the winery or install their art inside the winery.

The winery supports local artists by having them paint part of the winery or install their art inside the winery.

Here is some more art from the local artists that is hung inside the winery.

Art Hung by Local Artisians

Art Hung by Local Artisians

As you walk up to the winery, you first enter the tasting room.

The entrance to the tasting room at Clos de Tres Cantos

The entrance to the tasting room at Clos de Tres Cantos

The views of the Valle are beautiful from up in the winery.

View of the Valle from Clos de Tres Cantos

View of the Valle from Clos de Tres Cantos

We have a special placer both dogs and wine, so what is not to love about this winery when you see the “guard” dog at attention.

Wine and dogs, what is not to enjoy.

Wine and dogs, what is not to enjoy.

We first took a tour of the winery and as the images below show, it has been designed with some very interesting touches.

Some very interesting and unique architecture.

Some very interesting and unique architecture.

They even installed alters in both the bottling area and the room where the wines are stored in barrels.

Another alter this time in the bottling area

Another alter this time in the bottling area

 

Some very interesting and unique architecture.

Some very interesting and unique architecture.

Plus there is some nice art pieces dedicated to the Virgin de Guadalupe.

Pray Alter in the Cava

Pray Alter in the Cava

The storage area is well maintained and very cool. They do have to run air conditioners at times during the year but when we were there in March it was very cool inside the caves.

Petite Syrah and Tempranillo in barrels

Petite Syrah and Tempranillo in barrels

 

The room where they store the wine in barrels usually for 12 months.

The room where they store the wine in barrels usually for 12 months.

They also have recycled used wine bottles as “window treatments” to let in natural light based on the position of the window.

A different view of how the old wine bottles defuse the light.

A different view of how the old wine bottles defuse the light.

 

Holding Vats

Holding Vats

 

View of the vats in the cave and how the old wine bottle glass lets in some natural light.

View of the vats in the cave and how the old wine bottle glass lets in some natural light.

 

They use the old wine bottles to create a unique obscure window treatment

They use the old wine bottles to create a unique obscure window treatment

After the tour we visited the tasting room and sampled all of their wines. In general we found them all to be very nice and we of course left with a number of them.

The Mezcla de Tintos is aged 12 months in barrels and 12 months the bottle. 13.5% alcohol. Smokey bouquet with long legs. Good finish, fruit taste. Earthly, ruby red color. Our rating: 3.5 out of 5. Please note that this wine is only available at the winery.

The Clos de Tres Cantos "Mezcla de Tintos".

The Clos de Tres Cantos “Mezcla de Tintos”.

The 2013 Noesis is  100% Tempranillo. It is aged 12 months french oak, 12 months bottle. The wine has good legs, is a lighter red color, with a musty or yeasty aroma. The wine is smooth but not as bold. Our rating: 3.5 out of 5

The Clos de Tres Cantos "Noesis" which is a pure Tempranillo.

The Clos de Tres Cantos “Noesis” which is a pure Tempranillo.

The 2013 Resilencia is 100% Petite Sarah. It is aged 12 months in French oak and 23 months in the bottle. 14.5% alcohol. Dry, fruity, good finish with a red fruit aroma. Our rating: 3.5 out of 5

The Resilencia is a 100% Petite Syrah.

The Resilencia is a 100% Petite Syrah.

I forgot to shoot an image of the wine Nada which is a 2013 vintage. It is 100% Tempranillo. It is aged 12 months french oak, 12 months bottle. The wine has good legs, is a lighter red color, with a musty or yeasty aroma. The wine is smooth but not as bold. Our rating: 3.5 out of 5

Address: Carretera Tecate – Eseada, km. 89m Rancho Santa Lucía, San Antonio de las Minas, Baja California.

website:www.closdetrescantos.com
facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Clos-de-Tres-Cantos-1498521527058077
Telephone: +52 (55) 8568 9240
Wine maker: Maria J. Benitez Cantarero y Joaquín Moya Cussi

Vena Cava Vinícola

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On Friday we visited Vena Cava and winery owned by Phil and Eileen Gregory, where Phil is also the Enólogo. The winery is made up of a number of upside down boats which welcomes you to a slightly funky decor.

The entrance to the Vena Cava vinicola.

The entrance to the Vena Cava vinicola.

 

Vena Cava

Vena Cava

 

The architecture of the Vena Cava winicola is based upon upside down boats.

The architecture of the Vena Cava winicola is based upon upside down boats.

There also is a water pond just past the parking lot. It gives a beach front feeling that you will not receive at any of the other wineries.

Beach Front at Vena Cava?

Beach Front at Vena Cava?

When we entered the winery, the crew were in the middle of bottling some of the wine. Very organized and productive process.

Bottling Rose at Vena Cava

Bottling Rose at Vena Cava

Inside the barrel storage area, the a numerous barrels of various blends, some of which have the same grapes but have slightly different mixes of the grapes.

La Cava en la Vena Cava

La Cava en la Vena Cava

 

La Cava en la Vena Cava

La Cava en la Vena Cava

Prior to our tasting Jo Ann was having a conversation about the history of the wines.

Jo Ann in the Vena Cava Tasting Room

Jo Ann in the Vena Cava Tasting Room

Vena Cava has an extensive portfolio of wines, but alas we did not get to taste all of them.

Seleccion de vino en Vena Cava

Seleccion de vino en Vena Cava

 

We did not get to try this bottle yet, so I can not comment on the taste or aroma.

We did not get to try this bottle yet, so I can not comment on the taste or aroma.

 

We did not get to try this bottle yet, maybe we will return, but the blend looks very interesting to me.

We did not get to try this bottle yet, maybe we will return, but the blend looks very interesting to me.

 

I enjoyed the Vena Cava Zinfadel.

I enjoyed the Vena Cava Zinfandel. I found the wine had a great deep red color, good clarity. It had a fruity but was not spicy. I rated it 3.5 out of 5.

 

The Vena Cava Rosado 2014 was a very unique blend for a Rosado.

The Vena Cava Rosado 2014 was a very unique blend for a Rosado. It has long legs, but was a little thin on taste. My rating was 2.5 out of 5.

 

The white was a mix of varietals and was very good.

The white was a mix of varietals and was very good. It has a sweet taste but is very complex for a white wine. I rated this 4.0 out of 5.

 

View across the Valle

View across the Valle

We did come back the following Tuesday in order to meet up with Phil and talk about his wines. Here is Jo Ann and Phil sharing a great glass of the Big Blend.

Phil Gregory and Jo Ann

Phil Gregory and Jo Ann

Address: Rancho San Marcos, Toros Pintos S7N, Ejido Francisco Zarco, Ensenada, B.C.

Phone: +52 (646) 156-8053

www.venacavawine.com

email: venacavawines@gmail.com

Restaurante Laja

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Our first night’s dinner was at Restaurante Laja, one that comes highly recommended. It’s location is very difficult to find and there are no lights and the signage is very hard to see at night. Luckily we had driven by the restaurant during the daylight hours so we knew where we were going.

The evening was getting cooler so it was nice to be able to sit near the fireplace where there was a nice fire burning.

When we walked into Laja last night for dinner we knew were going to enjoy the meal as there was a fire in the fireplace.

When we walked into Laja last night for dinner we knew were going to enjoy the meal as there was a fire in the fireplace.

The ambiance of the restaurant is nice and not overly opulent.

The bar at Laja

The bar at Laja

Any good restaurant must have a good capaccinno machine and Laja did not disappoint.

Any good restaurant must have a good capaccinno machine and Laja did not disappoint.

Before we ordered we were given a basket of warm home made bread that seemed to be fresh from the oven. The olive oil was from Rancho Cortez, a small family run farm that we were planning to visit in the next two days or so.

Outstanding French Intergral bread and local olive oil from Rancho Cortez.

Outstanding French Intergral bread and local olive oil from Rancho Cortez.

The menu consisted of a four course tasting menu (you can go with the longer version but that was beyond our appetites).

Jo Ann started with the Oven Beet Salad, which was beautiful, colorful and very tasty.

Not only was the presentation beautiful but the flavors outstanding.

Not only was the presentation beautiful but the flavors outstanding.

We also also had the Warm Carrot Salad. The carrots were almost burnt but were outstanding.

The next course was the Salmon Tartar, which was actually bland but very well presented and colorful.

Very beautiful presentation but the dish was not very bold or tasteful.

Very beautiful presentation but the dish was not very bold or tasteful.

My second plate was the Burdock Ravioli, which is served in a consume with spinach, parsley and chives. The consume was excellent as was the Burdoc Ravoli. My only disappointment was the presentation was not very exiting. Overall it was outstanding.

Sorry that this image is not very sharp, I must have been excited to taste it. The consume was excellent as was the Burdoc Ravoli. My only disappointment was the presentation was not very exiting.

Sorry that this image is not very sharp, I must have been excited to taste it.

The third plate was the Pan Roasted White fish, which was very tender, very flavorful. It was nicely cooked as the vegetables were crisp but tender.

My pan roasted white fish was excellent and very flavorful.

My pan roasted white fish was excellent and very flavorful.

The other third plate that we had was the oven roasted local quail was also excellent and very well presented. The quail was moist, flavorful with a nice rub.

The oven roasted local quail was also excellent and very well presented.

The oven roasted local quail was also excellent and very well presented.

We ended our meal with the Chocolate Cream with Cardamon ice cream and tulip pastry. It was absolutely wonderful.

Absolutely delightful

Absolutely delightful

For our wine selections we also went with the paired wines. Many of these were nice but not many we would have searched out. The only one that was truly good was the late harvest Chenin Blanc from Monte Xanic. We are already planning to visit this winery so I know that there will be some of these bottles coming home with us.

Serve seemed stiff and somewhat pretentious especially as the evening unfolded. Some times the wines would not be served with the meals and some plates came early or late.

Overall my rating for Laja was a 3.0 out of 5 with a price ranking of $$$. I don’t know if I would return to Laja.

Troika Food Truck

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Our first lunch in the Valle de Guadalupe was at the food truck on the vineyard of Vena Cava called Troika.

Today's menu at Troika

Today’s menu at Troika

 

The Troika Food Truck

The Troika Food Truck

 

Grilling Tomatoes for lunch.

Grilling Tomatoes for lunch.

 

Walking home through the vineyards of Vena Cava

Walking home through the vineyards of Vena Cava

We started out with the Tacos de Cameron’s, which had a very smokey aroma and were outstanding (sorry no photos).

We then has the Tacos de Lechon which were also outstanding, very tasty and tender. They are cooked for six hours in leaves so the meat is very moist and tender.

The Lechon was cooked for six hours over a slow fire wrapped in leaves and both tacos were excellent

The Lechon was cooked for six hours over a slow fire wrapped in leaves and both tacos were excellent

We then moved on the Ensalada, which was a beautiful salad although the taste was somewhat plain as the dressing was bland.

The garden salad was very tasty and enjoyable.

The garden salad was very tasty and enjoyable.

We then ended our meal with the Sliders de Chiquials, which were outstanding.

Amazing sliders to start our lunch

Amazing sliders to end our lunch

I really liked sitting outside and enjoying the weather of the Valle while eating at Troika. I rate the restaurant a 3.0 out of 5 and the prices are very reasonable. This is a definite repeat location.

Casa Mayoral

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The majority of our stay in Baja was going to be at Casa Mayoral. It is an excellent B&B with extremely friendly staff. Although it is located a little off of the main road, it is easy to find and get to.

The property has a large orchard of citrus trees which at this time of the year are in full blossom and the aromas are just wonderful.

Citrus Glaore en Casa Mayoral.

Citrus Glaore en Casa Mayoral.

They also have a number of old farm implements which are interesting to look at.

Old Farm Equipment at Casa Mayoral

Old Farm Equipment at Casa Mayoral

 

Old Farm Equipment at Casa Mayoral

Old Farm Equipment at Casa Mayoral

But as you can see the view of the Valle from Casa Mayoral is outstanding.

View across the Valle

View across the Valle

During our stay there was a strong storm that blew through Baja as well as Los Angeles and San Diego. The evening of the storm it was too difficult to get out so we stayed home and were able to use the kitchen of the B&B which was very nice.

I strongly recommend Casa Mayoral and wish we had tried using their recommended chef who will prepare a dinner on site so you don’t have to drive to the restaurant.

¡Searching for Culinary and Vino Adventures in la Valle de Guadalupe!

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For the next week we will be exploring the Valle de Guadalupe searching out new wineries and restaurants throughout the Valle as well as in Tijuana. Our research of the area shows that it has totally blossomed into a major culinary and wine mecca that any true foodie needs to experience.

We will be starting our first day in Tijuana as our flight does not arrive until late in the afternoon. It has been almost 40 years since I last visited Tijuana and I know it is going to have changed traumatically.

We hope you will enjoy following our culinary adventures as we explore this wonderful area of México and that you will be able to come to experience it in your near future.

Flying from Morelia to Tijuana

Flying from Morelia to Tijuana

The Climate Is Going Crazy

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We started the week off down at the beach in Troncones.  When we arrived on Sunday, the weather was what you would expect for a tropical resort area, warm and beautiful clear skies.

 

Troncones Sunset

Troncones Sunset

Monday we got to spend the day walking on the beach and enjoying some pool time.

View from the pool

View from the pool

Playa Troncones

Playa Troncones

Pelicans

Pelicans

However come Tuesday we started to receive some very unexpected rain and the temperatures turned quite cold for the beach.  Over the next two days we received over 250mm of rain and the temperatures did not exceed 21° C.

Rain in January?

Rain in January?

Too Cold To Enjoy

Too Cold To Enjoy

We came back to Pátzcuaro on Friday and are receiving some of the coldest weather that I can recall since moving to Pátzcuaro.  It was actually slightly below 0° this morning so around 5:30a I was moving all the tomato starts from the green house into the living room.

Jo Ann's Tomato Starts

Jo Ann’s Tomato Starts

Now the weather is back up to around 14º and is suppose to top out at a normal 21 or 22º.  Clearly there is climate change happening, I just hope we can revert back to our normal weather sooner rather than later.

Beach Time In Troncones

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Playa Troncones

Playa Troncones

Playa Troncones

Playa Troncones

Playa Troncones

Playa Troncones

Playa Troncones

Playa Troncones

Playa Troncones

Playa Troncones

Playa Troncones

Playa Troncones

Playa Troncones

Playa Troncones

Playa Troncones

Playa Troncones

Playa Troncones

Playa Troncones

Las Tapas de Mercado San Juan

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There is an excellent deli/tapas restaurant in Mexico City that has locations in the Mercado San Juan, the Mercado Roma and a renovated historical building.  The food was excellent (although there wine selection was very limited).

This photo was from the location in the renovated historical building, although we had eaten at restaurant in the Mercado San Juan earlier in the day.