Why This Recipe Works:

Another minimalist Roman pasta made from pantry staples (cured pork, eggs, Pecorino), spaghetti alla carbonara is an indulgent dish with a foggy history. While the word carbonaro means “charcoal burner and could point to the dish being eaten by charcoal workers, some think it was dreamed up during the Allied liberation of Rome, during which Romans were supplied bacon and eggs from the Americans. Others theorize that this dish, like cacio e pepe was made by meandering shepherds. Whatever the origin, spaghetti carbonara may seem simple but can be devilishly hard to get right: The finicky sauce relies on the heat of the pasta to become lush and glossy, but all too often the eggs scramble and the cheese clumps. Looking for a way to keep the sauce reliably fluid, we reduced the amount of pasta cooking water by half as we did for cacio e pepe. In addition to preventing clumping, the starch in this concentrated liquid worked in concert with the egg proteins to lend viscosity to the sauce. While some recipes use all egg yolks for custardy richness, we found their powerful emulsifying and thickening capabilities turned the sauce Into glue just minutes after serving.

Three whites and four yolks gave us a sauce with the flavor we were after and an ideal thickness during a 15-minute serving window. It’s important to work quickly in steps 2 and 3. The heat from the cooking water and the hot spaghetti will “cook” the sauce only if used immediately. Warming the mixing and serving bowls helps the sauce stay creamy. You can substitute an equal amount of bacon for the guanciale.

Ingredients 

• 8 ounces guanciale, cut into 2-inch pieces
• ½ cup water
• 3 garlic cloves, minced
• 2½ ounces Pecorino Romano, grated (1¼ cups)
• 3 large eggs plus 1 large yolk
• 1 teaspoon pepper
• 1 pound fresh egg spaghetti
• 1 tablespoon salt

Instructions 

1. Bring guanciale and water to simmer in 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat and cook until water evaporates and guanciale begins to sizzle, about 8 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-low and continue to cook until fat renders and guanciale browns, 5 to 8 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 30 seconds, Strain guanciale mixture through fine-mesh strainer set in bowl. Set aside guanciale mixture.
2. Measure out 1 tablespoon fat and place in bowl; discard remaining fat. Whisk Pecorino, eggs and yolk, and pepper into fat until combined.
3. Meanwhile, set colander in large serving bowl. Bring 2 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add spaghetti and salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente.
4. Drain pasta in prepared colander, reserving cooking water. Pour 1 cup cooking water into liquid measuring cup and discard remainder. Return pasta to now-empty bowl.
5. Slowly whisk ½ cup reserved cooking water into Pecorino mixture until smooth.
6. Gradually pour Pecorino mixture over pasta, tossing to coat. Add guanciale mixture and toss to combine. Let pasta rest, tossing frequently, until sauce has thickened slightly and coats pasta, 2 to 4 minutes, adjusting consistency with remaining reserved cooking water as needed. Serve immediately in warmed serving bowls.